what kind of body armor should i buy!?!?!?!

Be sure to check your states regs on body armor....for example nj doesnt allow armor unless your actually in the house, and thier even picky with that.

_________________
Ricardo "STEEL" Zambujo
(Southern New Jersey Region)
S.O.R.A. Certified NJ Security Guard

Former Military Honorable / Medical (Retired for Life)
U.S. Army / Fort Knox / 1-81 Armor / 19-D Cavalry Armored Reconnaissance Scout

Former Firefighter (New Jersey)
Former Bounty Hunter (New Jersey)
Georgia State Certified Peace Officer #O210022
Certification #PBCO20130210022
Former Georgia State Dept of Corrections - Bootcamp Officer
Former Georgia County Sheriffs Office

From my understanding, which could be flawed easily, the classification is what matters. Level 3 or 3A being good. Brands and types are personal preference. Like weight, thickness, ect... for comfort and whether you want to wear over or under a shirt.

Of course, Im not an expert in the body armour field and this could be faulty. Just what I was told by LE when I got mine.

Bullet proof vests are classified under the NIJ standards. Level II, IIA, levelIII, IIIA, level IV.

The different levels offer varying degrees of protection rated on thier ballistics test under NIJ.

You can buy any style of vest with any level of protection. For example, you can buy an undercover vest that is IIIA certified.

There are many factors in choosing a vest: concealed, unconcealed, Ballistics rating (what range of calibres will it deflect ?). Not all vests will deflect all calibres.

Then you do have to consider name brands. A couple of years ago a Japanese firm claimed they had the most light weight, highest rated vest ever made to date. Well, the things disintegrated and officers were killed. The departments then recalled all of those vests as well as filed massive class action law suits against the manufacturer.

Then you have to consider trauma plates. There are 2 major drawbacks to trauma plates 1) Weight 2) Richochet effects. Say you have a front trauma plate, you get shot center mass, where is that round going ?...tests and actual shootings determined the richochets went upwards and destroyed officers/soldiers faces..literally shredding them. So then some pd's went to non-plated vests.

Then you have to consider time vs investment. The avg life expectancy of a standard kevlar vest is 3-5 years. Due to the elements, sweat (which contains salt), and extreme temperatures the material starts to break down.

So you can invest in a $350-$500 vest and consider it as insurance for 3-5 years. Then you replace it with a new one and then take the old one and break it down to the panels, and insert them into your car door, thereby increasing your protection even more so.

Gall's is not the only supplier. You can check out GT Distributors on the net. You can also find used ones on E-bay, Army-Navy stores, ask LE contacts if they have used ones they are rotating out (these are good for door panels as well), etc.

Too bad you werent on here a couple of weeks ago. I had mine listed in the "for sale" category. A threat level 3 with front trauma plate.

Anyway I hope this helps. Also remember though that most .200 calibres can penetrate (and often do) big bore rated vests. Esp this new .17 HMR calibre.

_________________
River City Associates
Decatur, Al. 35601

A good rule of thumb is to buy a vest that is at least rated to deflect the caliber that you and your partner(s) carry in case your sidearm is used against you. That being said I generally agree with what is posted above.